Phil and i had decided to drive up to washington pass for a day of rock climbing. For visiting climbers on the more advanced side of the spectrum you probably have your sights on the famous grade v liberty crack, but there is quite a bit of climbing for the slightly less ambitious. First few pitches went somewhat slowly, as i havent done much aid besides redneck aiding before. Leavenworth is washington states premier rock climbing destination. Check to the supertopo guidebook before climbing each route to see specifically what you need. For the east face routes, liberty crack and thin red line, continue over to the east side of washington pass on highway 20 and descend a short ways to the. Liberty bell, concord tower, lexington tower, minuteman tower, north early winter spire, south early winter spire washington pass on highway 20 is often regarded as the best alpine rock destination in the north cascades, with the main rock climbing attraction being the tightknit group of granite spires rising above the pass. At times the rock is loose, catlittered, and vegetated. There are hundreds of possible climbing and scrambling routes in the washington pass area from 3rd and 4th class scrambles to moderate alpine classics to aid climbing lines. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallelsided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Go on a guided rock climbing trip with north cascades mountain guides on the prime rib route of goat wall a 1500 foot wall that rises up above the methow river in mazama, wa. The first ascent of the route was done by climbing a short distance up the sw couloir and traversing left on ledges to reach the start of wavy crack. West crack is a super fun moderate route on the west side of daff dome.
Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. Direct south buttress of mount moran not durrance route. Rock climbing routes in washington pass, north cascades. The liberty crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof 2 pitches upon its right side. To see all of the climbs ive done at wa pass, go to my climbing at wa pass page. Liberty mountain climbing blog facebook instagram twitter. Fred beckey, jerry oneil, and charles welsh reached the summit of the iconic liberty bell as far back as 1946. A detailed climbers guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the northwest. Beckey route liberty bell washington pass, washington, usa. This was beckeys second first ascent on the west face of liberty bell after climbing the west face with john rupley in june of 1958. Information is provided in good faith but can not be guaranteed as 100% accurate. The ascent of the serpentine crack was very challenging with most of the middle of the route being entirely done on direct aid and the original ascent used over 35 pitons. Jun 29, 2016 matt climbing his first multi pitch route second day rock climbing bagged a leavenworth classic.
It includes 59 of the best routes, almost 20 of them have never before. I was looking for an adventure that would help untie my obsessions. The southwest rib of south early winter spire sews is one of the best 5. Pete told me that they were going to climb liberty crack, so i told him that i would make a video of it. The clean granite of washington pass and the liberty bell group provides some of the best and most accessible alpine rock climbing in the pacific northwest. And for a break from rock climbing hiking, mountain biking, whitewater rafting, canoeing, kayaking, wine tasting and cultural tours of the yakima nation cultural heritage center provide a nice diversion.
As an adolescent i aspired to lasting fame, i craved factual certainty, and i thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life. It is seven miles east of washington pass and 11 miles west of mazama at 3,600 feet, lone fir has 26 sites, 22 for tent. May 26, 2009 rock climbing washington leads the way to more than 1,500 routes throughout the evergreen state. Joe liederbach won the 11man sport division with 5,700 points followed by fellow senior jonathan anderson, who edged junior steven. The trail will bring you to the east face of liberty bell. Rock climb liberty crack, northwest region mountain project. Besides the great climbing to approach ratio, the relatively pointy summits composed of mostly solid granite are the other draw here. The rock is excellent granite and the tower has two routes on the north face and two routes on the south face. I made this video out of disgust for the climbing approach and beta from supertopo which i usually hold in high regards.
Explore the worlds most comprehensive index of climbing. This route has much less fixed gear than liberty crack, though pitches one, two and four feature nice bolted stances, though hanging. Next time youre in washington pass, avoid the crowds on liberty. The crack route in icicle creek canyon, leavenworth. Liberty crack liberty bell blake herrington climbing. Midfifth class classic alpine rock climb in snoqualmie pass, wa. Liberty bell click on routes to subscribe to a rss feed of all new routes added to this category. This update we purchased 8 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the united states. I wouldnt recommend doing it in a day unless youre a trail runner and have lots if experience with long distances. Washington pass climbing is the most detailed climber s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the northwest. Something i had previously soloed would be too predictable to have the desired effect. Washington pass on highway 20 is often regarded as the best alpine rock destination in the north cascades, with the main rock climbing attraction being the tightknit group of granite spires rising above the pass.
Jan, 2020 goat wall is a 2,000foottall piece of glacially carved, metapyroclastic rock off lost river road in mazama, deep in the heart of the north cascades. Nontechnical, moderate, intermediate, difficult and very difficult. Washington pass the place to get a taste of that alpine ambiance at the cost of a cragging approach. Find climbing areas all over the world planning a rock trip or just browsing for awesome climbing spot. Mikey schaefer, seanjean lee, blake herrington and i somewhat collectively created a new free variation to the bolt ladder. The supertopo washington pass climbing book is a fantastic guide to one of the better alpine areas in washington state. Guided alpine climbing in the cascades details pricing and ratios. Rock climbing washington, 2nd regional rock climbing series.
Retreat storm the route can be rappelled at anytime off fixed anchors from the top of pitch 7. Take a right onto washington state highway 20 and drive 56 miles to washington pass. Washington pass climbing info everything you need to. From i5 take exit 208 onto state route 530 toward arlington. Washington pass climbing north cascades mountain guides. Chamonix topo accepts no responsibility for loss, damage, injury or death. There is an excellent route top in beckeys cascade alpine guide, vol.
Learn more about the goat wall prime rib rock climbing trip. It contains a variety of climbing from chimneys to slabs and everything in between. Goat wall is a 2,000foottall piece of glacially carved, metapyroclastic rock off lost river road in mazama, deep in the heart of the north cascades. Liberty crack is featured in fifty classic climbs of north america. Washington pass beta check weather or road conditions. Located on remote washington pass in the north cascades, liberty bell. Jun 29, 2017 when your todo list at washington pass dwindles to the last few ticks in the book, freedom rider will offer an arresting and consuming adventure. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Liberty bell mountain is located in the north cascades, approximately one mile south of washington pass on the north cascades highway. Explore the granite cliffs of index, leavenworth, and darrington.
Climbing instruction and guiding is available locally from private companies in bar harbor. Liberty bell mountain features 18 named traditional climbing routes. South early winter spire southwest rib north cascade. The liberty crack is a technical rock climbing route on liberty bell mountain near washington pass and is featured in fifty classic climbs of north america. From the top of pitch 2 you can always pass by climbing pitch 3 of the girl next door that shares the same belay ledge. The area is centered around washington pass on the north. The crack becomes continuous only after the first 3 pitches, and after that the route features excellent climbing and surprisingly moderate terrain. With a summit elevation of 14,411 ft 4,392 m, it is the highest mountain in the u. Washington pass has something for everyone, from glacier climbs and short, easy. Liberty bell is the most northern spire of the liberty bell group, a group of spires which also includes concord tower, lexington tower, north early winters spire, and south early winters spire. Descend the south arete route with some class 34 down climbing and a couple of rappels. Washington pass climbing info everything you need to know.
There is no good way to pass on pitch 2 of the beckey route. Given that it was 26 pitches by the guidebook, we figured it would be a great exercise in alpine efficiency. Concord tower is the summit immediately south of liberty bell mountain in the liberty bell group above washington pass in the north cascades of washington state. Washington pass climbing liberty bell, concord, lexington. Alpinegt on 20100730 view climbing log good intro to washington pass climbing fun climb with plenty of pro and quick rappels back to base. Liberty crack liberty bell north cascades, washington, usa. Unfortunately, most of the routes i hadnt soloed were unexplored for a reason. Classics like the southwest buttress of south early winter spire make for rewarding outings for intermediate climbers, while the spectacular liberty crack challenges the most advanced.
For routes on the west side, park at the blue lakes trail head, 1 mile west of washington pass nw forest pass required. There are dozens of reasons for ticking routes and having a personal climbing logbook. Beautiful new testpiece in north cascades climbing magazine. Climbing gear the closest gear shop to washington pass is the goats beard, 18 miles east of the pass in the small town of mazama.
If so, first look at the wa state map on the right to see which of the 10 sections of washington it likely lies in. This beautiful and stunning rock formation looks equally at home in washington as it would in the dolomites or patagonia. Its a good line and im sure its better when dry, but overall the value is more in the position than the climbing. The area also has classic aid routes such as liberty crack on liberty bell. For our boealps icc grad climb, coco, ilia, priti and i did the liberty group traverse. I hadnt heard of anyone climbing the direct route on washington column 5. But this trail in october, with yellow larches and a dusting of snow, is unreal. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years 15 different sets. The classic route up liberty bell, the beckey route, is a 5. A major storm system will barrel through the east today. Each technical level has a maximum ratio, but you are free to choose a lower ratio or to climb privately if you prefer. Author ian nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Its super crowded and aasgard pass is a butt killer.
I would say that over half of it is very fun climbing though. It is one of our favorite climbs at washington pass and many guests come back to climb this route year after year. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack. It is seven miles east of washington pass and 11 miles west of mazama at 3,600 feet, lone fir. Brooke originally climbed the bolt ladder directly, but this has since seemed to have crumbled under years of aiding. Located on the spectacular washington pass, liberty bell is a domelike mass that is one of 5 peaks that comprise the liberty bell massif. The book has a nice combination of classics as well as moderate and fun looking newer and less known routes which is nice. Kangaroo temple northwest face the northwest face of the kangaroo temple. Climb to the summit of liberty bell via the beckey route. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with.
Liberty bell mountain is located in the north cascades, approximately one mile south of. Id been looking at climbing a route on the kangaroo temple for a while, and the northwest face seemed to fit the bill. Marblemount, at milepost 106, is the last place to buy food and gas until mazama, 74 miles on and 18 miles further east of washington pass. The famed liberty crack route was added in 1965, and most other of what are.
Mazama is the gateway to washington pass and its granite alpine climbing. Click on ascents for a rss feed of all new ascents. Rock climbing routes in liberty bell, washington pass. Apr 02, 2020 located on remote washington pass in the north cascades, liberty bell 7,720 is a striking granite monolith that harbors a number of great routes, from easy novice climbs, difficult freelines, and perhaps washington states most accessible alpine bigwall. Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of washington pass on highway 20. For routes on the east side of liberty bell, park at an overlook just above the hairpin turn on the east side of washington pass. We are able to customize trips for climbers of all abilities. Pitch fours belay is exposed and hanging, with one 38 bolt sloppily placed, backed up. Rock climbing three of central washingtons top spots by.
The best climbing on freedom rider is actually on liberty crack, and the medusa roofs despite having one of the coolest names of any pitch were just a big wet chimney, not what we had imagined for the best 5. The crack becomes continuous only after the first 3 pitches which for most are mostly aid. Home to an incredible abundance of granite peaks and spires. Climb classic multipitch routes with one of our qualified guides in one of the most spectacular alpine climbing destinations in the us, washington pass. Its a great choice if you need to perfect your crack climbing and jamming skills, but its very popular, so get there early, prepare for an alternative, or get in line. Many climbers capable of climbing liberty crack will simulclimb pitches and 14 same as the last pitch of the becky route to the top. Everything except the lithuanian lip can be climbed free at up to 5. It is one of the most classic crack climbs in tuolumne, running unbroken for almost 500 feet. Rock climbing team page club sports liberty university. Staying in the washington pass area camping there are three campgrounds within 18 miles of washington pass. We followed this topo stretching pitch 7 to the indicated optional belay then going straight to top of pitch 9 hence 1 less pitch in. Lone fir campground is the closest campground to washington pass. Severe thunderstorms with tornadoes, damaging winds. The washington pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.
Faced with 100 degree forecasts and a stillinjured ankle, my wife and i headed up to the spires at washington pass where we hoped to find no bugs, cool temps, and short approaches. The liberty crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof 2. The two classic routes are the 400 foot beckey route 5. Washington pass is the largest collection of easily accessible alpine rock climbs in the country. The climbing varies from easy 400 foot routes to difficult multiday aid routes on its 1200 foot east face. Here are a few of central washington s best climbing spots. Men sweep sport class at usa climbing event in philadelphia. Washington pass is really more of an alpine rock climbing area than a crag area. Most climbers take two days on liberty crack, often fixing the first three pitches and returning the next day to climb to the summit. Situated in the rain shadow of the cascade range, leavenworth is an ideal location for rock. Climbing and skiing are dangerous activities that you partake in at your own risk. Excellent write up of the fa history, authors own ascent story and a good topo and route description. If coming from the west on highway 20, consider stocking up at the haggen grocery store in burlington right off the 230 exit or the food pavilion in sedrowoolley before you get to washington pass.
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